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Siding · How it works

How Siding Is Replaced: Tear-Off, Rot & Install

Ballpark Lab Research TeamUpdated July 6, 20266 min read

Re-siding a house is a strip-and-rebuild job, not a cover-up. The crew tears the old siding down to the sheathing, fixes whatever it was hiding, redoes the water barrier, and only then hangs the new material. For a typical 2,000 sq ft two-story house, that lands around $14,000–$24,000 installed depending on material — before the one line item nobody can quote in advance: rot. Here's the whole sequence, in order, and where the money (and the surprises) hide.

The 30-second answer

A pro re-side runs six steps: tear off and dispose of the old siding ($0.75–$2/sq ft), inspect and repair the sheathing (the rot change-order), install new house wrap, flash every window, door, and penetration, hang the new siding, then trim, corner, and caulk. Installed material runs $3–$12/sq ft for vinyl up to $7–$17 for wood. The steps you can't see from the curb — sheathing, wrap, flashing — are the ones that decide whether the fresh siding is still watertight in ten years.

The price backbone

Siding is quoted per square foot of wall, or by the "square" (100 sq ft). These are the 2026 installed ranges in our siding cost calculator, with the total for a typical 2,000 sq ft house at mid-range prices:

MaterialInstalled $/sq ftTypical2,000 sq ft house (mid)
Vinyl$3–$12$7~$14,000
Fiber-cement$5–$14$9~$18,000
Engineered wood$6–$15$10~$20,000
Wood$7–$17$12~$24,000

Those are the installed numbers; getting your own square footage right is the first move, and we walk it in how to measure siding squares. National price checks line up: This Old House pegs installed vinyl near $6/sq ft and fiber-cement around $9, and HomeAdvisor puts fiber-cement at $5–$13.50/sq ft. The full material breakdown is in how much does siding cost.

Step 1: Tear off and dispose

Everything old comes off — siding, trim, and the failed house wrap behind it — down to the bare sheathing. Crews pry panels or boards, pull nails, and load a dumpster. Budget $0.75–$2 per square foot for the labor and disposal; on 2,000 sq ft that's roughly $1,500–$4,000, and Fixr puts removal and disposal at $1,000–$2,500 for a mid-size home. This step isn't optional on a real re-side — it's what makes the next five possible, and it's the first line a thin bid quietly drops.

Step 2: Inspect and repair the sheathing — the change-order

With the wall open, the crew reads the OSB or plywood sheathing and the framing behind it. This is the moment a straightforward job can grow. Rot clusters where water got in for years — under windows, at door sills, along the bottom course at grade, and behind any old caulk that failed.

Rotted sheathing is a change order, not a fixed line, because nobody can see it before tear-off. Expect $2–$4 per square foot of affected area to cut out and replace bad sheathing, and $500–$3,000 for a typical find. Fixr warns that removal "can reveal hidden issues such as rot, water damage, or insect activity," and This Old House notes the same. The best defense on paper: make sure your contract states a per-square-foot rot rate up front, so demo day isn't a negotiation.

Step 3: New house wrap

Behind good siding sits a weather-resistive barrier — house wrap — that drains any water that gets past the surface. On a full re-side the old wrap comes off with the siding and new wrap goes on: overlapped shingle-style, taped at seams, run up the wall. It's cheap insurance at $0.50–$1 per square foot, and skipping it seals a 20-year-old drainage plane behind brand-new siding. Redo it while the wall is open; you won't get another chance without tearing off again.

Step 4: Flashing the openings

Flashing is the metal and tape that directs water back out around every opening and transition: window and door heads and sills, the kick-out flashing where a roof meets a wall, and every penetration (hose bibs, vents, meters). It's the single most common source of the hidden rot from Step 2 — bad flashing is why the sheathing rotted. Re-flashing while the wall is open costs little and is the difference between siding that sheds water and siding that traps it.

Step 5: Install the new siding

Now the visible part. How it goes on depends on the material:

  • Vinyl: starter strip at the base, then panels snapped and nailed loosely so they can expand and contract. Fastest of the four — which is why it's the cheapest to install.
  • Fiber-cement: heavy boards cut with a shear or scored, blind-nailed or face-nailed course by course, staggered joints. Slower, heavier, and the crew's PPE matters (silica dust).
  • Engineered wood: installs much like fiber-cement but lighter to handle and cut, so labor sits between fiber-cement and vinyl.
  • Wood: clapboard or shingle nailed individually, then primed and painted or stained — the most labor and the most upkeep after.

We put the two most-cross-shopped side by side in vinyl vs. fiber-cement siding.

Step 6: Trim, corners, and caulk

The finish work that makes it look like siding and not panels: corner posts, J-channel around windows and doors, fascia and soffit if they're part of the scope, and a bead of the right caulk at every joint. Fixr notes trim alone runs $0.50–$30 per linear foot depending on material. This is also the step where fascia and soffit sneak onto — or off of — a quote, so read the line items.

A worked example: re-siding a 2,000 sq ft house in fiber-cement

Mid-range national prices, our typical two-story house:

  • Tear-off and disposal, 2,000 sq ft × ~$1.25: $2,500
  • New fiber-cement installed (wrap included), 2,000 sq ft × $9: $18,000
  • Permit allowance: ~$250
  • Subtotal: ~$20,750 on sound sheathing

Then the variable: open the wall and find rotted sheathing under two windows, and the change order lands at ~$1,500 — mid-range for the $500–$3,000 typical find — bringing it to ~$22,250. Swap fiber-cement for vinyl and the siding line drops to $14,000, landing the job near $16,750 without rot. Same house, same crew — the material and the rot are the whole spread. Current Cost notes hidden rot and other surprises can add 5–20% to the total, so carry a contingency for exactly this line.

The "excluded" line items to watch

A siding bid can look cheap by leaving out the work that isn't siding. Before you compare two quotes, confirm each includes:

  • Tear-off and disposal ($0.75–$2/sq ft) — not siding-over-siding.
  • New house wrap ($0.50–$1/sq ft) and re-flashing every opening.
  • A written rot / sheathing rate ($2–$4/sq ft) so a discovery isn't a blank check.
  • Trim, fascia, and soffit — spelled out, not assumed.
  • The permit ($100–$400) and final inspection.

A bid that's several thousand dollars under the others usually just moved these off the page.

Get your number

The calculator prices this exact process for your house — wall area by material, tear-off, permit, and a rot contingency — and shows the takeoff, not just a total. Enter your square footage and compare vinyl, fiber-cement, engineered wood, and wood side by side.

Open the siding cost calculator →

Run your own number

Estimate siding replacement cost from your house footprint — vinyl, fiber cement, engineered wood, or wood, with siding squares, a material takeoff, and a low–high range.

Estimate my cost →

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to re-side a house?
A typical 2,000 sq ft two-story house takes about one to two weeks: a day or two for tear-off and sheathing repair, then the new siding, trim, and caulk. Fiber-cement and wood run longer than vinyl because every board is cut and fastened individually. Weather delays and any rot discovered mid-job stretch the schedule.
What happens if the crew finds rotted sheathing?
It becomes a change order. Rot behind old siding is invisible until tear-off, so it's priced after the wall is open — typically $2–$4 per square foot of affected sheathing, and $500–$3,000 for a common find around windows or at grade. A good contractor writes a per-square-foot rot rate into the contract so you aren't negotiating from zero on demo day.
Do you have to remove the old siding first?
For a proper re-side, yes. Tearing off ($0.75–$2/sq ft) is what lets the crew inspect the sheathing, replace the house wrap, and re-flash the windows — the steps that keep water out. Siding-over-siding exists for some vinyl jobs, but it hides rot, adds wall thickness, and voids some manufacturer warranties.
Does a siding replacement need new house wrap and flashing?
On a full tear-off re-side it should. House wrap ($0.50–$1/sq ft) is the drainage plane behind the siding, and window and door flashing is what directs water back out. Once the wall is open it costs little to redo them, and skipping it seals an old failure point behind brand-new siding.
What's usually NOT included in a siding quote?
The line items that inflate a low bid: tear-off and disposal, new house wrap, re-flashing openings, trim/fascia/soffit, sheathing rot repair, and the permit ($100–$400). Before comparing two quotes, confirm each one includes tear-off, wrap, flashing, and a written rot rate — otherwise you're comparing different jobs.
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A ballpark estimate for planning — not a final quote. Siding data last updated July 6, 2026.